Day 4: When Plans Change, Adventures Begin

Date: July 15, 2025 | Location: Kirkjubæjarklaustur to Neskaupstadur via the Eastern Fjords, Iceland

Sometimes the best travel days are the ones that don't go according to plan. Day 4 was supposed to be about hiking Mulagljufur Canyon. Instead, it became an unexpected journey through some of Iceland's most spectacular landscapes at a pace that forced us to truly see everything we were passing by.

The Morning That Changed Everything

We started early from our campsite in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, where it was a wet and cool morning, but still oh so beautiful. We quickly packed our bags, loaded up the car, and set out toward our first destination - hiking in Mulagljufur Canyon. Little did we know, the day was about to get a lot more adventurous than any hike could provide.

As we pulled onto the road that led to Mulagljufur and made our way toward the trailhead parking lot, we heard something no traveler wants to hear - the steady hiss of a tire rapidly deflating. As luck would have it, we managed to hit a small rock in just the wrong way, cracking the rubber on our tire and creating a small opening just large enough to rapidly deflate our chance at hiking the canyon.

Finding Help in Hof

Thankfully, the rental car had a spare tire in the trunk, so after a quick trailhead swap, a Google search for a local tire repair shop, and a phone call to an extremely nice local in Hof, we made our way toward what we hoped would be a quick and easy tire repair to get us back on the road to adventure.

Hof is a quaint little village just outside of Fagurhólsmýri, consisting of a few small houses, a little hotel, a gorgeous church, and fields of grass. Nestled into the side of an imposing cliff face, as seems to be the tradition in southern Iceland, this village was as cute as it was quiet. Birds called overhead, the mist obscuring parts of the cliff face to give a mysterious aesthetic, and the ocean in the distance providing a sense of perspective. One could imagine the pace of life on this part of the island was as peaceful as one could ever want.

We met our local repair man, hoping for good news, but sadly that news wasn't to come. As it turns out, the particular tire on our rental car, a Dacia Bigster, has a... penchant... for having this exact problem with regular frequency. We were told that not only could he not repair the tire safely, he had also sold his last replacement tire to another traveler who experienced this same problem just the previous day.

Thus, the day of 75 km/h travels began. With 6 hours of driving to do and lots to stop and see, we settled into our revised adventure plans.

Embracing the Slow Lane

Making our way east, once again passing Mulagljufur, we pressed on toward our hotel for the night in Neskaupstadur. With our plans opened up, we decided to allow ourselves the opportunity to make stops as desired, see the sights, and experience Iceland at a slower pace.

There's something to be said for being forced to slow down. Each twist and turn of this otherworldly island brings new sights and experiences, from the striking coastlines to the jutting cliff faces, expansive lava fields covered in moss, and frigid waters filled with glacial ice. When you can only drive 75 km/h, you actually have time to see it all.

Glacial Lagoons: Nature's Art Gallery

We decided to set our sights on Jökulsárlón and Breiðamerkursandur (aka Diamond Beach), with an impulse stop at Fjallsárlón glacial lagoon and the Útsýni Yfir Fjallsjökull overlook. Having come from wet, green grass and moss-covered south/southwest Iceland, and moving toward eastern Iceland, the land shifted rapidly toward a realm of sea and ice, with glacial lagoons, distant views, and coastlines marked by glacial ice and enormous icebergs.

Fjallsárlón was unlike anything I've experienced before. Seeing the ice shelf of the glacier pouring over the mountains toward the sea, breaking off into the lagoon, and birthing icebergs that made their way toward the ocean was remarkable. Those that had flipped over were of the most perfect blue - luminescent and pure, floating in still waters made from the melt of thousands of years of glacial ice.

We spent a good amount of time marveling at the process, taking photos at the water's edge, watching nature's ancient artistry unfold in real time.

Diamond Beach: Popular for Good Reason

From there, we headed over to Breiðamerkursandur - Diamond Beach. The beach itself is quite the experience. Compared to the lagoon, this popular tourist destination is just that - popular. Full of tourists, tour buses, and people from all over the globe, the beach can be quite crowded and overwhelming, though admittedly for good reason.

Standing amongst the frozen blocks of ancient time, watching the ocean mix with the glacial freshwater, and taking the time to find unique shots of the icebergs while dodging other tourists taking selfies, was a wonderful and exciting experience. There's something quite remarkable about standing on a beach filled with icebergs of all shapes, sizes, colors, densities, and clarity.

As a photographer, the challenge becomes finding your own perspective in a place that's been photographed millions of times. The key is patience and being willing to wait for the right moment when the crowds thin out.

The Eastern Fjords: A Fairy Tale Landscape

From Breiðamerkursandur, we moved further east, watching the landscape change from open plains to rugged coastline, watching sheep dot the landscape and glacial creeks carve the land into fissures. There were a number of gorgeous villas nestled into the rocks at the base of the cliffs, and grass farms spread across the flats.

The closest comparison for Iceland's southeastern coast is that of California's, with cold waters, black sand beaches, pillars of stone rising from the sea, and waves crashing against the shore. A photographer's delight.

We passed through the first of many tunnels, and it was remarkable just how long and well-designed the tunnels were - the longest being almost 8 kilometers long! The tunnels brought us into a land unlike I've ever seen: the eastern fjords.

A Land of Fantasy

Long and narrow, with skyward cliffs, the ring road undulating on one side, and small fishing villages on the other. When you drive through the fjords, your sense of direction and time quickly becomes askew. One minute the ocean is on your left, then it's on your right. You're driving into the sun, then all of a sudden you're in the dark shadows. It's a unique experience to drive around the fingers of the island.

Not only are the eastern fjords twisty and unique, they're also extremely gorgeous, as if out of a fairy tale. Being here is like stepping into a land of fantasy, where the air is clean, the mountains touch the sky, the landscape is lush and rolling, and everywhere you look is picturesque. I could spend the rest of my life looking at this land and never grow tired.

Next time I come back to Iceland, I'm going to intentionally spend more time here. There's a bounty of photography to be had, if one has the time to spend and create art.

Fishing Villages: Life by the Sea

The fishing villages are as quaint as one would hope them to be. Cute little houses, people walking everywhere, piers, cafes, and homes right along the water's edge. They're small enough to be intimate, but large enough to give a sense of the life that exists here.

Every town has its coastal industry, whether that's fishing, cargo distribution, processing plants, or otherwise. The towns seem to grow up around them, they sustain the villages and give them unique identities. They also have their own selections of ships and vessels, depending on the industry. Some are small skippers, some are large sea-faring ships. Each is unique, and a pleasure to photograph.

I found myself pulling over constantly to snap photos of all the ships and the unique sights. When you're forced to drive slowly, you notice these details that you might otherwise miss.

Home Sweet Hildibrand

Landing at our final destination in Neskaupstadur, we were greeted by a lovely sight after such a long drive - the Hotel Hildibrand. Our room was more of an apartment, and after the tight quarters of the cabin, it was nice to be able to spread out and relax. We found ourselves asking, "Is this our new summer home?"

When Things Don't Go According to Plan

Day 4 was a jam-packed adventure, even if it was in unexpected ways. What started as a potential disaster - a flat tire that derailed our hiking plans - turned into one of the most memorable days of the trip. Sometimes the best travel experiences come from being forced to slow down and really see what's around you.

The Eastern Fjords revealed themselves to us in a way they might not have if we'd been rushing through at normal speeds. Every fishing village, every tunnel, every turn around the fjords became a moment to appreciate rather than just another mile marker on the way to our destination.

Tomorrow is a chance to relax, recharge, explore Neskaupstadur, and hopefully find a good big hike and waterfall to take time to set up the camera and capture more of Iceland's beauty.

Tomorrow: Exploring Neskaupstadur and the surrounding Eastern Fjords. Follow along as this adventure continues to unfold.

Equipment Used Today: Nikon Z7II with 24-70mm f/2.8 and 85mm f/1.8 prime lenses
Weather: Cool and misty, perfect for moody landscape photography
Mood: Adaptable and pleasantly surprised by unexpected discoveries
Driving Speed: 75 km/h max (thanks to our tire situation!)

What's been your most memorable travel mishap that turned into an adventure? Share your stories in the comments below!