Day 6: From Basalt Cathedrals to Midnight Solitude

Date: July 18, 2025 | Location: Neskaupstadur to Siglufjörður via the Highlands, Iceland

Some days on the road surprise you with their perfect rhythm—moments of discovery flowing seamlessly into quiet solitude, each experience building on the last. Day 6 was one of those days, taking us from the dramatic basalt columns of Stuðlagil Canyon through Iceland's stark highlands to a magical midnight hike in complete solitude.

Morning Fuel and Unexpected Beauty

We started our journey from Neskaupstadur with the simple pleasure of coffee and a muffin—sometimes the best travel days begin with the most basic comforts. The drive toward Siglufjörður promised to be long, but as we've learned in Iceland, the journey is always the destination.

Not far into our drive, we encountered our first gift of the day: Rjúkandi waterfall, appearing like an unexpected treasure along our route. What made this stop even more special were the sheep grazing peacefully nearby, their wool coats bright against the green landscape. Of course, I had to capture their portraits—when Iceland's iconic sheep pose so perfectly near a waterfall, you don't pass up that shot.

I set up some rock-propped long exposures here, working with the natural elements to stabilize my shots. The waterfall was crowded but not unreasonably so compared to what we've experienced at other locations. There's something satisfying about finding your own creative solutions when the perfect tripod setup isn't possible.

Stuðlagil Canyon: Nature's Cathedral

The real highlight of the morning was our journey to Stuðlagil Canyon near Egilsstaðir. After driving to Stuðlafoss waterfall, we embarked on a 1.5-mile hike each direction that would reward us with one of Iceland's most photographically stunning locations.

The trail was quite populated at first—typical for such a renowned spot—but as we hiked down into the canyon itself, the crowds thinned considerably. There's always this magical moment when you descend into Iceland's hidden spaces and suddenly find yourself in your own private cathedral of stone.

And what a cathedral it was. Setting up my camera in several different spots throughout the canyon, I worked extensively with my 1000 ND filter and circular polarizer on the 12-24mm lens. The goal was to capture those classic shots of the brilliant blue mineral waters flowing against the sheer, linear columns of basalt that make Stuðlagil so iconic.

The basalt columns here are unlike anything else—perfectly geometric, rising like organ pipes from the earth, created by ancient volcanic activity and carved by centuries of glacial water. Working with long exposures, I was able to capture that silky water effect that contrasts so beautifully with the rigid stone formations.

Into the Highlands

Hiking back and continuing our journey, we entered a completely different Iceland—the stark, otherworldly landscape of the lava fields and highlands. The contrast from the lush eastern fjords was striking. Here, the landscape becomes strikingly barren, almost lunar in its vastness and raw beauty.

This desolate terrain has its own dramatic appeal. The sense of scale is overwhelming. Endless expanses of hardened lava rock, sculpted by wind and weather into forms that seem more suited to another planet than Earth.

Geothermal Surprises

Our route delivered another unexpected gem at Námafjall Hverir, where we stopped to witness boiling mud and sulfur vents in action. The geothermal activity here is mesmerizing—earth literally bubbling and steaming, releasing that distinctive sulfur aroma that immediately tells you you're in the presence of volcanic forces.

These impromptu stops are what make road trips magical. No amount of planning can replace the joy of stumbling upon something extraordinary when you least expect it.

Coastlines and Waterfalls

Making our way along the coastline toward Akureyri, we were treated to views of massive cruise ships in the harbor—a reminder of how many people dream of experiencing this incredible island. The juxtaposition of these floating cities against Iceland's wild coastline creates an interesting study in scale and human ambition.

We made our obligatory stop at Goðafoss, another of Iceland's famous waterfalls. While we've seen many waterfalls by now, each one offers its own character and photographic challenges. Goðafoss, with its horseshoe shape and multiple cascades, provided new opportunities to work on composition and timing.

In the distance, we caught glimpses of volcanic craters near Mývatn and Reykjahlíð—more reminders of the incredible geological forces that continue to shape this island.

Rolling Hills and Unexpected Thai

As we continued toward the fjords, the landscape shifted again to rolling farmlands dotted with villas and estates. Iceland's ability to completely transform its character every few kilometers never ceases to amaze me. One moment you're in stark volcanic highlands, the next you're driving through pastoral scenes that could be from a different country entirely.

We stopped for dinner in Dalvík, where we discovered unexpectedly delicious Thai food. I ordered pork curry that was both spicy and full of complex flavors—exactly what we needed after a long day of driving and hiking. Sometimes the best travel meals come from the most unexpected places.

Tunnels and Transitions

The drive from Dalvík toward Siglufjörður took us through a series of impressive tunnels carved through the mountains. These engineering marvels provide access to some of Iceland's most remote communities, connecting the fjords in ways that would have been impossible just a few decades ago.

We finally reached our accommodation in Siglufjörður, the charming fishing village where tomorrow's wedding celebration will take place. We dropped off our stuff, said hello to some of the guests, and greeted the bride and groom. But the photographer in me wasn't quite ready to call it a day.

Midnight Solitude at Héðinsfjörður

Instead of settling in, we jumped back through a tunnel to the previous fjord, Héðinsfjörður, for what would become the most peaceful hike of our entire trip. For the first time since arriving in Iceland, we found ourselves completely alone with the landscape.

The blessing of solitude cannot be overstated. After days of navigating crowds at popular locations, hiking along the water's edge with nothing but the sound of gentle waves and distant bird calls felt like a meditation.

I split off from my travel companions to hike upthe cliff face along an unnamed and unmarked waterfall, and this is where the day's real magic happened. The ground here is incredibly spongy—moss and vegetation creating a natural carpet that requires careful foot placement. There's definitely an art to hiking Iceland's natural terrain safely, reading the land to find stable footing while avoiding the more precarious spots.

Technical Triumph in the Midnight Sun

Working along the waterfall, I was able to apply everything I'd learned during the trip so far. Setting up timelapses at different locations and mini pools, I focused on framing compositions that would make each shot interesting rather than just technically proficient.

Using my 12-24mm lens with my tripod and 1-5 variable ND filter, I had to work with the unique challenges of the midnight sun, unsteady terrain, and flowing water. The light at this hour is extraordinary—cool and blue, but constant, requiring different exposure considerations than traditional golden hour photography.

I captured some of my favorite images of the trip during this session. When you combine technical knowledge with the right conditions and, most importantly, the peace to really focus on your craft, magic happens.

The Art of Descent

Hiking back down the waterfall proved more challenging than the ascent. The terrain that seemed manageable going up became trickier to navigate on the way down, requiring constant attention to foot placement and balance. It's a good reminder that in Iceland's wild spaces, respect for the environment is about both conservation and safety.,

Reflections on Rhythm and Solitude

Arriving back at our accommodation at midnight, I reflected on what made Day 6 so special. It wasn't just the incredible locations or the successful photographs. It was the rhythm of the day: moments of technical challenge balanced with unexpected discoveries, social interactions over Thai curry, followed by complete solitude in nature.

Tomorrow brings the wedding celebration, which means a different kind of adventure entirely. I won't be blogging again until Sunday, as it's time to put the camera down (mostly) and celebrate love in one of the world's most beautiful settings.

But tonight, as I write this with the midnight sun still streaming through the windows, I'm grateful for a day that perfectly captured what makes Iceland special: the ability to surprise you, challenge you, and ultimately leave you changed by the experience.

Tomorrow: Wedding celebration in Siglufjörður! The next blog post will be on Sunday as we continue this incredible Ring Road adventure.

Equipment Used Today: Nikon Z7II with 12-24mm f/4 Sigma Art, 1000 ND filter, circular polarizer, and variable ND filter for those crucial long exposures

Weather: Clear and mild, perfect for both driving and midnight hiking

Mood: Energized by solitude and technical achievements

What's been your most memorable moment of finding unexpected solitude while traveling? Share your stories in the comments below!